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| Denim cloth |
Denim was produced
in Nimes, France in the late 1800s. In fact it is hard to determine when
they started making it; perhaps as early as the mid-1600s? The cloth is
properly called Serge. The Blue Serge from Nimes was called "Serge de
Nimes" (pronounced SERJ de NEEM) but when it was imported into the States
the anglicized pronunciation was Denim.
The real answer for "why blue" comes from the introduction of bulk Indigo dye to Europe. The default blue colour is from the dye called Indican. Prior to the importation of Indigo, woad leaves were the only source of blue dye in Europe and North America. Woad gives a fainter blue and you need at least 2x the amount compared to indigo. Then, suddenly, both cheap cotton and cheap Indigo were imported to Nimes via sea routes from India.
Indigo was imported in its processed form as a pure dye. It looked like rock crystals and for many years people didn't even know it came from a plant. It was listed as a "mineral". Woad dye was supplied as rolled-up balls of composted woad leaves. Indigo was extremely cheap, compared to woad, gave a better and darker blue, and when it hit Europe it put the entire woad industry out of business within a generation. People who could not formerly afford blue clothes now luxuriated in the”colour of nobility".
The real answer for "why blue" comes from the introduction of bulk Indigo dye to Europe. The default blue colour is from the dye called Indican. Prior to the importation of Indigo, woad leaves were the only source of blue dye in Europe and North America. Woad gives a fainter blue and you need at least 2x the amount compared to indigo. Then, suddenly, both cheap cotton and cheap Indigo were imported to Nimes via sea routes from India.
Indigo was imported in its processed form as a pure dye. It looked like rock crystals and for many years people didn't even know it came from a plant. It was listed as a "mineral". Woad dye was supplied as rolled-up balls of composted woad leaves. Indigo was extremely cheap, compared to woad, gave a better and darker blue, and when it hit Europe it put the entire woad industry out of business within a generation. People who could not formerly afford blue clothes now luxuriated in the”colour of nobility".
I'm always intrigued by the trade routes implied by this simple statement. Cotton and indigo from India. Imported to Nimes, France. Made into cloth. Imported to Italy. Made into trousers by a Bavarian. Imported to the US east coast. Shipped out west to miners and cowboys.
Cotton serge (aka drill or twill) does not have to be blue. It starts out white or cotton coloured. When it is dyed beige or grey it's called Khaki.
Khaki is dyed after the cloth is woven, but Denim is thread-dyed before weaving. And only half the threads are dyed blue; the rest are white to save on the cost of the indigo, making this cloth a handsome blue while remaining eco



